Monday, March 12, 2007

Voter Registration

We tend to get isolated in our own little world here at Xavier. It is up on a hill in the rural “countryside” of the island. Thus, we often find ourselves disconnected with the rest of society. Fortunately Lincoln (a Canadian who hails from the New England state of Vermont) and Marcos, (born and bred on the outskirts of LA but identifies more with his strong Mexican roots) the two JV teachers who work at Saraamen Chuuk Academy, (the other Catholic High School downtown) serve as liaisons between our sheltered existences and the life that we never knew existed beyond it…

This past week, while we were revolving in the cyclic routine that keeps us sane, the rest of Chuuk was steeped in voters’ ballots and campaign signs. Throughout the FSM (Federated States of Micronesia), this year marks the quadrennial election for district and national leaders. Now, I don’t claim to be a political scientist, but I do know that a democratic government is intended to provide its citizens the opportunity to offer their input in choosing a qualified leader. Candidates are supposed to campaign on platforms that promise of a brighter future, and voters either align with those whose promises sound most convincing, or those who best reflect their own political views. That’s how it works, right? It’s a political structure whose longevity has been substantiated by its effectiveness in placating the masses of people longing for a say in how the country is governed. Unfortunately, the comparative newness and ineffectualness of the Chuukese democracy is evident in the failure of the system to thrive in this familial oriented society.

Again, my naivety and philistinism leaves me with no room to draft and disseminate my own political theories, however a degree is not required to be able to recognize the inherent problems specific to the Chuukese branch of government. While the value Chuukese place on the family is the essence of what makes their culture so beautiful, it seems to contradict the intended purpose of a democracy. Thus, platforms that might offer ideas on concentrating efforts to improve the public school system, or conserving fuel consumption and finding alternative power sources are inutile because officials are not elected based on their qualifications so much as their familial affiliations. Election time breeds violent tension between families who are torn between two candidates, whose marriage relations oblige loyalty to one, but whose village demands loyalty to another…and the corruption cascades from there…Aside from the inevitable nepotism that occurs to reward dedicated supporters, there are no checks or balances to question the point at which someone might think depositing half of a 2 million dollar donation into a personal account and actually getting away with it was a good idea, or nothing to ensure family members pay for their electricity bills so that the power company can operate on anything other than 4 hour interval schedules, or nothing to protect funds allocated for paving projects from being used for extravagant inaugural celebrations.

What is frustrating for both locals and outsiders is that a glimpse of this ideal (only in the sense that it is marginally effective) form of government is not elusive. While no state puts on a flawless show, the states Palau, Yap, Pohnpei and Kosrae at least appear to have their acts together and don’t experience a fraction of the economic instability from which my home state, Chuuk, continues to suffer.

With any election comes a hope, however minute, that things will change for the better and in the past few months I have been privileged enough to witness baby steps in what seems to be a positive direction. The Chinese government just donated the money and man power to refurbish the once passé island airport so that it not only looks beautiful, but complies with international regulations. Surveyors have begun assessing what we like to call “roads,” and for the first time in about 5 years Chuuk has come as close to 24 hours of power as is possible without actually having it, thanks to the donation of two new fuel efficient generators.

I don’t have solutions, only complaints, which I realize is an equally large part of the problem here, but thanks to Marcos, who can represent our community of JVI’s (Jesuit Volunteers International) here, I feel that in some way, I have done something proactive. One of the Chuukese teachers took him along to the “voting precinct” for what was supposed to be an experience in observing how elections work here in Chuuk. It’s not that Marcos could easily be confused for a Micronesian, and it’s not that he went with the intent of trying to outsmart the system, but when he was handed a ballot, what else was he supposed to do? Aside from long history of corruption, there has already been controversy over the number of people not voting and the failure of absentee ballots to be counted, “but,” as A.J. so eloquently puts it, “at least they let the Mexican vote!”

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